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1. Evaporator coils 2. Evaporator Fan
3. Defrost Element 4. Compressor
5. Temperature Control 6. Refrigerator Compartment
7. Defrost Drain Pan 8. Icemaker Water Inlet Valve
9. Icemaker Fill Tube 10. Condensor Fan
11. Condesor Coils 12. Suction Side
3. Defrost Element 4. Compressor
5. Temperature Control 6. Refrigerator Compartment
7. Defrost Drain Pan 8. Icemaker Water Inlet Valve
9. Icemaker Fill Tube 10. Condensor Fan
11. Condesor Coils 12. Suction Side
Refrigerator not working. Nothing running and no light inside.
- Check that the breaker is not tripped. If so reset by pushig completely to the off position and the to the on.
- Test that the outlet has power. With a multimeter set to ac volts. Put the red probe in the smaller side(right) of the outlet and the black probe in the larger side(left). You should get a reading of about 120v.
- Check that the cord is not damaged and is completely plugged in.
Refrigerator is not working. Nothing running but, the light is on.
- Besure that the temperature setting is not set to the off position.
- Test the Temperature Control #5 (Below).
Compressor not running.
- Test the compressor relay. Which is located on the side of the compressor (Below).
- Test the Compressor (Below).
- Test the Defrost Timer located inside the Temperature Control Unit (Below).
- Test the Overload Protector located on the side of the Compressor near the relay (Below).
Freezer is frozen up in the back.
- Make sure the Evaporator Fan is running in the freezer compartment. Can Usually hear it running inside the rear of the freezer. If not remove back panel and test the Evaporator fan (Below).
- Test the Defrost Element (Below).
- Test the Defrost Bi-Metal located behind the freezer panel. Will be connected to the tubing on the coils and have two wires comming from it (Below).
Light not working.
- Replace the bulb.
- Test the switch. Diconnect power to the unit. Gently pry the switch loose with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the two wires and check for continuity between the two terminals. When the switch is out it should give a continuity reading. When the switch is pushed in it should open the circuit.
Refrigator or freezer is not cold enough.
- An average working temperature for a freezer is between 0 and -5 degrees F. For a refrigerator the average temperature should be about 38 degrees F.
- Check the temperature setting.
- Check the damper between the frig compartment and the freezer compartment.
- Check to see that ice or any objects are not restricting the air flow through any of the vents.
- Test the Temperature Control (Below).
- Be sure the condensor coils under or behind the unit are clean and no air flow is restricted.
- Check to ensure the Door Gaskets are sealing completely.
- Check for excessive ice in the rear of the freezer. If so follow the steps for freezer frozen (Above).
- Check the compressor for a high or low amp reading which either way could be a sign of an inefficient compressor.
Tetsing the temperature control.
- Remove the wires from the teperature control. Being sure to mark their location.Set the multi-meter to th ohm setting or x1. place one probe on each terminal. Turn the control to the warmest setting or off. The multi tester should display an open or infinate reading in the off position. Now turn the control to the coldest setting and retest the the display should show less resistance as you turn the knob to the coldest setting until it finally end at 0 or no resistance. If the control does not respond as descibed it should be replaced.
Testing the compressor relay.
- While it requires some specific equipment to test the new solid state relay. You can usually tell if the relay is no longer working by removing it from the compressor. Then giving it the shake test if it sounds like pieces are rattling around inside the relay should be replaced.
Testing the compressor.
- Mark and remove the relay and overload from the compressor. There are three terminals on the side of the compressor. After the compressor has cooled, you should get a continuity reading between any and all of the terminals. Next check to see if the compressor has shorted to ground. First scratch the paint of in a small spot on the compressor housing. Next, put one terminal on the bare spot on the compressor housing and the other on each of the three terminals one at a time. If any of them have a continuity reading to the compressor housing the compressor must be replaced.
Tetsing the bi-metal defrost thermostat.
- Test the thermostat for continuity using a multi-tester. Set the multi-tester to continuity. Place a probe on each terminal. The multi-tester should display a closed reading when the thermostat is cold and an open reading when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. To get the thermostat to a sufficient temperature to close you may have to submerge it in a cup of ice water.
Testing the defrost timer.
- To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
Tetsing the evaporator fan.
- Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be replaced.
- Check for continuity between the terminals. It should have continuity between all terminals.
Testing the compressor overload
- Some units have an overload protector on the compressor near the relay. This is in case of high temperatures it disconnects power to the compressor. It can be checked by checking the continuity between the two terminals. There should be continuity between the terminals.
Testing the defrost element.
- If you have the schematic that tells the specific ohms for your unit. You can ohm the element out to be sure it matches the specifications. If this information is not available you can test the out to be sure it matches the specifications. If this information is not available you can test the
